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Storer’s Bangor Cathedral | Jump to Plates
“The History & Antiquities of the Cathedral Church of Bangor illustrated with a series of highly finished engravings exhibiting general & particular views, a ground plan and all the architectural features and ornamentation of the edifice by J. & H. S. Storer London Published for the proprietor, by Sherwood, Gilbert, and Piper Paternoster Row. 1818”.
University of Wales Bangor Library Call Number X/AL 6b BAN
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The
history of episcopacy in Wales is closely blended with that
of collegiate institutions, intended to act as asylums for
the religious in early and rude ages, unfavourable to the
cultivation of a simple and intellectual faith. However, perverted
at subsequent periods, these establishments, which were designed
by piety and were succoured by beneficence, must be regarded
with veneration, as the nurseries of Christianity in semi-barbarous
times and as the depositories of that little store of learning
which laid the foundation of improvement, in morals and manners,
amongst the ancient inhabitants of Cambria.
Of these memorable colleges, the most flourishing and celebrated
was that known by the different names of Bangor, or Banchor,
Is Coed; Bangor Vawr yn Maelor; Bangor Maelor; and Bangor
Dunod; situated in Flintshire. According to the historian
Cressy, a school of learning was there established in the
time of King Lucius AD 189; but writers less prejudiced and
credulous are contented with believing that the foundation
was laid by Dunod Vawr, son of Pabo, a chieftain who lived
about the beginning of the 6th century. Its splendour in prosperity,
and the scene of pitiless slaughter which acted as the harbinger
of its decay, have equally attracted the attention of enquirers
into monastic history, through all succeeding ages. The number
of devotees assembled within the sacred precincts of Bangor
Is Coed, was not less, as is asserted by Bede, and other ancient
writers, than between two and three thousand. Without stopping
to investigate the grounds upon which such a return of collegiate
population was first made, it may be observed, that the greatness
of the alleged number will appear less surprising, when we
remember that a considerable portion of those who composed
such institutions in the ages under notice, were illiterate
brethren employed in secular avocations, including the labour
of agriculture for the benefit of such as were capable of
performing religious and other exalted offices.
/b/The prosperity of this extensive establishment was, however,
of short duration. The pious fraternity vigorously opposed
the assumptions of the Church of Rome as exhibited in the
person of its missionary, Augustine. The saint, we are told,
threatened the monks with his vengeance; and this resentment
was speedily productive of an event, which no saint in the
calendar, we will hope, could have either anticipated or authorized.
Edilfred, King of Northumberland, instigated, as has been
said, by Augustine, commenced a most disastrous war against
the Britons; and obtained, in the year 603, a signal victory
over Brochwel their prince. The unhappy British leader had
entreated the presence and the prayers of the monks, who in
great numbers, ascended a hill adjacent to the field of battle
and there employed themselves in supplication to the God of
mercy, for his direction of the scene of bloodshed in a way
favourable to their wishes. The infuriated Northumbrian king
deemed such a parade of intercession an act of positive hostility
against himself and ordered his soldiers to pave their way
to the opposing men at arms with the bodies of these wretched
summoners of almighty aid in the conduct of an earthly quarrel!
His orders were too punctually obeyed; and it is narrated
that 1200 monks were slain; fifty only escaping, by flight,
to communicate the tidings of woe and ruin.
Shortly after the foundation of the above distinguished but
unfortunate monastery and, as is believed, in the year 525,
Daniel or Deiniol, son of Dunod ap Pabo, with the united intentions
of relieving a society so inconveniently large, and of extending
the means of instruction over another district, erected a
collegiate structure in Caernarvonshire, designed to act as
a cell or subordinate member to Bangor Is Coed. Over this
new institution Daniel presided as abbot until about the year
550 when the college of his foundation was raised to the dignity
of a bishopric, and himself appointed the first prelate. Buildings
speedily accumulated round the sanctified and populous edifice
now constituted an important see; and the growing city, in
denotation of its ecclesiastical supremacy, was termed Ban-cor.[1]
After the decease of Daniel, who is thought to have sat as
bishop about four years, and is registered as a saint, the
annals of this see are involved in extreme obscurity for several
centuries. In this circumstance of chill, oblivious fortune,
the other bishoprics of Wales par-/c/ticipate with that now
under consideration; and for such a melancholy blank in the
records of ante-Norman ages we have already endeavoured to
account, in our History of the Cathedral and See of St. Asaph[2]
One shadowy and uncertain name has been snatched by the hand
of deep research from this gloom of desolation. It has been
asserted by Bate and Pits that a churchman, termed Elbodus,
was nominated to this see about the year 610 by St. Austin;
but Willis adduces arguments for believing that those writers
are subject to mistake and that the person whom they name
Elbodus was in reality no other than Ellodu who “was
certainly bishop of Venedotia or Bangor and died such AD 811
as we find in the Annales Menevenses”[3].
‘The next year died Elbodius archbishop of North Wales
before whose death the sunne was sore eclipsed’. In
Wynne’s History it is said that a Bishop named Mordaffs
sat at Bangor in the years 940 and accompanied to Rome the
memorable prince and legislator Howel Dha; but such a prelate
is not noticed by any other historian of acceptable credit.
Although it be found impracticable to present any resemblance
of a chronological account of the bishops who presided over
our see, whilst the government of South Britain was vested
in the Saxons, some few historical particulars have been collected
which are calculated to prove that the interests of Christianity
as connected with the established church, were not entirely
neglected in this recluse and mountainous district, even in
the worst times of intestine war, and its long train of injuries
to the moral welfare of mankind. King Athelstan appears to
have been a considerable benefactor to the see of Bangor,
and in such a judicious exercise of liberality he was imitated
by the munificent Edgar, who in the year 975 caused a new
church to be founded on the south side of the cathedral ;
which building (or a renovated structure on the same site)
was used as the parish church of Bangor for many centuries.
Whilst the succession of our prelates is thus unknown, and
lost forever amidst the wrecks of time, it will not be supposed
that much historical intelligence can be obtained relating
to the cathedral in which they performed the principal ceremonies
of their pastoral duty. The little which is retrieved from
the fragments of defective record, conveys a lamentable idea
of the ferocity of unlettered ages – times of intellectual
deformity in which the altar itself presented no barrier/d/
to the devastating hand engaged in party quarrel. It is stated
in the Annales Menevenses, that the cathedral of Bangor was
destroyed during the rage of warfare in the year 1071. At
what date the structure was rebuilt is not ascertained; but
we have distinct notice of a bishop (Herveus or Hervey) consecrated
to this see about the year 1093; and from that time we are
enabled to pursue its history through the most comprehensive
channel – a notice of such prelates as were instrumental
in a marked degree, to the observance of religious duties
amongst those entrusted to their care; or have obtained an
interesting place in our local annals, from the possession
of conspicuous talent, and from transactions appertaining
to the cathedral buildings and temporalities of their diocese.
The cruel impolicy of nominating to the Welsh sees, priests
of Norman education and habits, indifferent to the natives,
if not actually prejudiced to their disadvantage, was proved
in the person of the above-named Herveus. He had been confessor
to Henry I and was probably a mere courtier. His severe treatment
of the Welsh led to a tumult among that bold and free-spirited
people, from which he fled in terror, but met with cordial
shelter and a new bishopric in England. The next name which
demands attention is that of Robert (usually termed Robert
of Shrewsbury) who acted a disasterous part in the war between
England and Wales in the reign of King John. The historian
Powell, narrating the events of the year 1212, observes ‘that
the English monarch passing the river Conway, encamped there
by the riverside and sent part of his army, with guides of
the country, to burn Bangor; which they did, taking Robert
the bishop prisoner, who was afterwards ransomed for two hundred
hawkes”.
Bishop Anian, who received the temporalities in 1268, improved
them with industrious but not avaricious care. “Being
in great favour”, says Willis, “with King Edward
I he obtained divers privileges and immunities to his see;
in so much that most (if not all) the little estate that now
belongs to the bishopric was acquired in his time”.
Among the numerous grants which he procured from the crown,
must be noticed that of Bangor House in Shoe Lane, which was,
for a long time, the London residence of succeeding prelates.
Several of the manors then added to the possessions of the
see, were presented to this bishop in consequence of his bestowing
the baptismal benediction on Prince Edward, afterwards second
king of England of that name, who was born at the castle of
Caernarfon within the/e/ diocese of Bangor. Many circumstances,
favourable to posthumous celebrity, have concurred in attaching
importance to the memory of bishop Anian. As the most interesting
of these, must be mentioned a missale or pontifical, drawn
up by him for the services of his church and diocese, which
is still preserved in our episcopal library. Richard Younge,
elected to this see in 1399, was a zealous adherent to King
Henry IV and was shortly after his promotion sent into Germany
by that prince, entrusted with the task of representing in
favourable terms the circumstances attending the deposition
of Richard II. During his absence on this mission, his unprotected
diocese experienced most severe calamities. This was the period
at which Owen Glendwr took to arms and ravaged the loyal parts
of Wales with brutal ferocity. The destruction of the cathedral
of St.Asaph by the sacrilegious hand of this ruffian-warrior,
has already been noticed; and that of Bangor shared the same
fate. So effectual was the irreverent work of devastation
that the whole cathedral buildings were involved in one disfigured
heap of ruin; and it will be shewn, in our survey of the existing
structure, that only a trifling and subordinate portion is
of a more ancient date than 1402, the year in which this scene
of detestable violence took place.
In this state of disgraceful dilapidation our mitred pile
lay prostrate for nearly a century, although during those
numerous years several men of some eminence for virtues and
talent were elected to the chair of the diocese. John Stanbury,
consecrated in 1448, is mentioned by Leland, and other writers,
as one of the most learned men of his age and was nominated
as such, first provost of the newly-erected college of Eton
by Henry VI. His ultimate beneficence, in bequeathing a sum
of money towards the restoration of our cathedral, induces
us to presume that he would have proved an efficient benefactor
to that arduous task, if his attention had not been diverted
to other objects by a promotion to the see of Hereford, after
/f/presiding here for five years. The long neglect which the
cathedral experienced will create but little surprise if the
revenues of the see were indeed so deficient as was stated
by Bishop Evyndon or Ednam, in the year 1468. This prelate,
in a representation to the Pope concerning the extreme poverty
of his bishopric, affirms that its annual produce did not
exceed the sum of £100; and he consequently obtained
permission to hold some other benefice, or dignity, in commendam
with it, for the benefit of himself and his successors.
It was during the prelacy of Henry Dean elected Bishop of
Bangor in 1496, and who was afterwards successively translated
to Salisbury, and to the archiepiscopal see of Canterbury,
that the restoration of the structure was commenced on a comprehensive
scale. It is believed that the choir was rebuilt through his
munificence; and on his promotion to Salisbury he left to
his successor at Bangor his valuable crozier and mitre, on
condition that he would finish such works as were then in
an imperfect state. During two succeeding prelacies, it would
appear that nothing new was undertaken, but the pious labour
of re-edification was resumed with a magnificent spirit by
Bishop Skeffington who was consecrated in 1509. In our examination
of the buildings we shall direct the attention of the reader
to those extensive portions of the cathedral and palace, which
act as lasting monuments of his liberal attention to the interests
of a see that had been, through too many ages, either violently
persecuted by its foes or almost equally injured by the blameable
indifference of those on whom it depended for support.
It is desirable that we should mention Arthur Bulkeley, advanced
to this bishopric AD 1541, in order to vindicate his character
from an aspersion cast on it by Godwin. That author charges
our bishop with several acts of sacrilegious spoliation; and
particularly with selling five bells, taken from the steeple
of the cathedral church. As an embellishment of the tale,
he condescends to repeat a vulgar tradition, which states
that the bishop attended in person the exportation of the
hallowed furniture thus wrested from the campanile and was,
on his return homewards, stricken with incurable blindness.
The prejudices of Godwin have been often noticed and deeply
endangered was that man’s fame, who lay at his mercy
and thought not as he did! In the present instance, it may
be observed, that it is extremely unlikely for five bells
to have been contained in the steeple as only three were provided
by bishop Skeffington. The marvellous blindness of the presumed
spoliator is sufficiently disproved by Willis, who remarks
that several writings, still in existence, were executed /g/
by him only a few days previous to his death, in a neat and
accurate manner, scarcely attainable to a person deprived
of sight.
After paying the above just tribute of attention to one of
the last Roman Catholic bishops who filled the see, it becomes
our pleasing task to notice the most eminent of their successors;
ecclesiastics who were born in happier days of religious opinion,
and who exhibit the superior effects of the reformed faith
on the usual incentives to public and private action. Henry
Rowlands, consecrated in 1598, was a liberal benefactor to
the repairs of the cathedral (bestowing a new roof upon the
part below the choir) and was otherwise intent on dedicating
a part of his revenue to works of public advantage. In the
annals of religious learning, he is commemorated as having
founded two fellowships at Jesus College, Oxford; and in those
of local charity he is gratefully celebrated for the foundation
of an hospital at Bangor, endowed by him for the maintenance
of six poor and aged men. No district in which the dignity
of the established church, however temperately displayed,
was upheld by pecuniary resources, could be secure from the
baneful influence of those civil wars in the 17th century,
which may not unaptly, be termed the diseased and febrile
effusion of the body politic. Bishop Roberts presided over
our see when this wild storm of human passion first broke
forth. Deprived of everything but his loyalty, and his confidence
in the simple faith which he had learned and taught, he proved
the injustice of his oppressors by the blended mildness and
fortitude with which he sustained adversity. We are fortunate
in being enabled to record that he outlived this futile combustion
of the public mind and became, to use the words of Browne
Willis, “an happy instrument in reviving the ancient
laudable worship in this cathedral”. In the calm season
which followed his restoration, he appears to have attended,
with due care, to the repairs and embellishment of the church;
and in this necessary task he was emulated by his successor
Robert Morgan, a native of Montgomeryshire and a great sufferer
during the rebellion.
The name of Humphrey Lloyd, who was born in Merionethshire,
and was promoted hither in the year 1673, must ever be mentioned
with respect in the history of this see. The repairs of the
cathedral had hitherto depended on optional bounty; whilst
the choir was entirely destitute of endowment. Bishop Lloyd
procured an act of parliament, appropriating certain revenues
to the permanent endowment of the choir, the perpetual repair
of the fabric and the aug-/h/mentation of the bishopric. Few
prelates have attracted greater notice on the stage of public
life, or are more renowned in the annals of controversial
writing, than Dr. Benjamin Hoadly, who was consecrated to
the see of Bangor in 1715. This divine had the chosen but
unenviable lot, of being engaged in polemic dispute throughout
nearly the whole of his mature years. The opinions which he
espoused were, in general, of an unpopular character; but
the favour with which they were received by those political
parties which obtained ministerial power, is evinced by the
dignified situations to which he was progressively appointed.
Whilst Dr.Hoadly presided over this diocese, he became the
instigator of a dispute in ecclesiastical politics, which
employed the press for several years and is usually known
as the ‘Bangorian Controversy’. This literary
warfare among clerical writers originated in a sermon preached
by our bishop, upon these words:- “My kingdom is not
of this world”. In expatiating upon his text, Dr. Hoadly
maintained that the clergy had no pretensions to any temporal
jurisdiction. He preached in an age when religious professions
were too much blended with the designs of human policy; and
a long controversy ensued in which Dr. Snape bore a distinguished
share, but which was conducted in a manner that perhaps reflects
no exalted credit on either of the parties engaged. It would
require an extensive dissertation upon the politics which
prevailed in the early part of the 18th century, to explain
the causes which led the people to disapprove Dr. Hoadly’s
sentiments and induced the court to patronize them. It may
suffice to observe, in the present page, that our polemic
bishop, as “champion of the low church”, was successively
promoted to the sees of Hereford, Salisbury and Winchester.
He died in the year 1761 and his works were collectively published
in three volumes folio, by his son in 1773. In the list of
succeeding prelates, are eminent the names of the eloquent
Thomas Sherlock (who appeared for the first time, as an author,
in the celebrated Bangorian controversy in which he opposed
Dr. Hoadly) and Thomas Herring, afterwards advanced to the
archiepiscopal see of Canterbury. Dr. Majendie our present
respected bishop, was promoted hither in the year 1809.
The Cathedral of Bangor possesses no claim on admiration from
extent of dimensions, magnificence of decoration or profoundness
of /i/ antiquity. The extreme poverty of the see throughout
those ages in which the pile was originally constructed and
progressively renovated, will sufficiently account for its
limited proportions and simplicity of character The ravages
of war, which have been already narrated and stigmatised in
these pages, preclude all hopes of our discovery on a spot
so much exposed to hostile visitations, any important archaeological
remains of a remote date.
This cathedral is situated on the north side of the city of
Bangor, and is surrounded by a cemetery, or churchyard, which
although still small, has been considerably enlarged within
the last ten years. The material of which the building is
composed is stone which is of a dusky hue, but by no means
an unpleasing aspect; and is proved to be of salutary durability,
by its present uninjured appearance. The structure is low
in proportion and situation. Destitute, therefore, of all
pretensions to commanding grandeur of effect, it relies on
the modesty of its architectural features and on the neatness
of simplicity, for the advantage of a favourable first impression
on the mind of the spectator. Placed in the vicinity of a
mountainous tract, where the “threatening Snowdon frowns
amidst his circle of ponderous tributaries,” it would
appear to assimilate with the ancient, unostentatious manners
of the inhabitants; firm, though unassuming; respectable,
but unadorned. Then plan of the cathedral is cruciform, with
a low square tower rising from the west end. A row of clerestory
windows extends to the whole length of the nave but the obtuse,
depressed heads of these windows exhibit the pointed arch
in its declining days; and the clerestory imparts little of
airiness or elegance to the edifice. The architectural examiner
will, however, find some gratification on viewing, at the
west end, a spacious door and window, well designed and executed
in a style worthy of English architecture in its most prosperous
season.
The interior comprises a nave with two side aisles; north
and south transepts; a choir, with some official buildings
attached to its north side, and a quadrangular area between
the choir, the nave, and the transepts. An outline of the
architectural history of the present edifice has been afforded
by our notice of the prelates who contributed towards its
erection. A more minute discrimination of these respective
works is the duty of the present and ensuing pages. Of the
ancient structure, contumeliously involved in ruin by Owen
Glendwr, A.D.1402, it is believed that no fragment now remains,
except a sepulchral erection at the extremity of the south
transept; unless two contiguous buttresses may be supposed
of nearly equal antiquity; a /k/ conjecture, perhaps, authorized
by their architectural character. Independent of the dubious
and unimportant parts, no division of the present cathedral
can be ascribed to an earlier date than the 15th century.
The choir was built under the direction of bishop Dean, promoted
hither in 1496, and is chiefly adorned by its large east window,
which is divided into several compartments, but unlike the
most celebrated specimens of the style that prevailed in the
time of Henry VII, has little of the embellishment arising
from tracery-work. This window, together with others, in different
parts of the cathedral, is described by Willis, whose ‘Survey’
was published in 1721, as being enriched with painted glass
( saints, and bishops in their robes and mitres etc) but the
whole appears to have been then in a mutilated and decaying
state and has since been removed. The roof is cased with common
plaister and the furniture is of a homely, and rather displeasing
character. The stalls for the dean, prebendaries and other
dignitaries and official persons were erected soon after the
restoration; and are in the worst mode of that tasteless period.
The Episcopal throne would appear to have been designed and
executed by a common workman of the country, and similar terms
of description will apply to the altar.
The entire body of the church, from the choir downwards to
the west end, including the tower, was built by Bishop Skeffington
between the years 1509 and 1532. Some repairs and slight alterations,
however, have been effected and the most important of these
shall be noticed.
The nave is separated from the side aisles by six obtusely-pointed
arches, resting on octangular columns or pillars. The ceiling
of this part of the church is described by Willis as comprising
“nine beams well wrought and beautified with carved
work”. The following particulars of information are
also afforded by the same writer: “There are four panels
between each beam, the corners of which are carved. This ceiling
looks well, though it is not wainscoted and only planked under
the lead; but the work being close and most of it moulded,
it has no ill appearance, though it was never painted. There
are but two escutcheons throughout the whole building of the
church, and they are in the ceiling of the nave, and are in
memory of Bishop Vaughan and Bishop Rowland[s]; which bishops
very much adorned and repaired this church.” Since the
survey of our cathedral was made by Browne Willis, some alterations
have here been effected. In the time of Bishop Cleaver it
was ascertained that the roof was /l/ in a state of dangerous
decay and a renovation of this part of the fabric consequently
took place. The simplicity of its ancient character was, however,
preserved; and the roofing still exhibits its framework of
timber, but destitute of carved ornaments or historical allusions.
Between the choir and nave is erected a fine-toned organ,
given to the church by the late dean Lloyd in the year 1779.
The front of the organ gallery is a puerile and mean imitation
of the English style of design, as occasionally displayed,
with such captivating touches of genius in the screen-work
of ancient sacred edifices.
When writing concerning the transept of this cathedral (or,
as he terms it, the ‘great cross-ile’) Browne
Willis intimates that ‘most part’ of this division
of the structure was ‘standing before’ the time
at which bishop Dean commenced those labours of restoration,
which were completed by Bishop Skeffington. We have already
shewn that from the architectural character of the transepts,
Mr Willis was probably subject to error in making this assertion;
and that the remains of the cathedral buildings desolated
by Owen Glendwr are in reality confined to some inconsequential
particulars although these trifling vestiges do assuredly,
occur in this part of the edifice. The transepts possess little
architectural interest, but display in the leading features
of their arrangement, as will be seen from our engraved views,
the style of the 16th century, in one of the most frugal and
homely of its modifications. The interior is quite devoid
of laboured ornament, and is not known to have experienced
any improvement entitled to observation, since the time of
bishop Rowlands. On the plain ceiling of both transepts is
inscribed the name of this prelate with the date 1611; evincing
the period at which certain memorable repairs were completed
under his direction. The area which intervenes at the meeting
of the choir, the nave and the transepts, has been long set
apart for the performance of divine service in the ancient
British language. Browne Willis supposes that it was originally
designed to erect a tower over this part of the church, as
is usual in similar cruciform structures. “Between the
nave and the quire” observes that writer “is a
square space, supported by four pillars, or pretty large arches,
the foundation, or bottom, of which looks pillar-like; and
the arches are so wrought as if they were made up of several
little pillars. Over these a steeple seems to have been designed
to have been erected”.
The buildings on the north side of the choir are greatly injurious
to the architectural effect of that part of the structure,
and are described by Willis as consisting of two stories,
the upper division forming one room and being designed for
a library, the lower comprising /m/ three compartments, “a
storeroom for the uses of the church, a vestry, and a chapter
house, including a parochial lending library.” Some
alterations in this extraneous building took place under the
direction of Bishop Warren; at which time the ancient chapter
house was converted into the registrar’s office, and
a new chapter-room was built above. The windows of the latter
division of the building are lamentably incongruous with the
style of architecture that prevails throughout other parts
of the structure; but it is pleasing to observe that they
constitute the only instances in which the plan of the original
designer (however unostentatious its merits) has experienced
violation from the injudicious hand of the mere builder. Whilst
bestowing this alloyed commendation, it is requisite that
we render a just tribute of unmixed praise to the dignified
persons latterly entrusted with the superintendence of our
cathedral. The exemplary neatness with which it is preserved
has been uniformly noticed by those numerous tourists who
have communicated to the public the result of their investigation
in this alpine and attractive district. From the ruinous magnificence
of St. David’s, the examiner turns with pleasure to
the well-preserved fabric of our uninspiring cathedral. We
view in ‘Menevia’ the decaying and disregarded
splendour of ages intent on the outward ceremonials and pompous
habits of religion. At Bangor the antiquary finds little that
is deserving of laborious attention; but whilst cherishing
the best feelings of Christian philosophy, he has serious
cause of gratulation in beholding a pile adapted to more limited
purposes, which is still maintained in decorous repair, and
has no useless architectural member to be discarded and thrown
among the gorgeous lumber of a superstitious era. It has been
already suggested that the existing fund for the reparation
of our church originated in the liberal interference of bishop
Lloyd, who in the year 1685 procured an Act of Parliament
appropriating to this purpose and to the endowment of the
choir, the rents accruing from the Rectory of Llandinam in
Montgomeryshire. Amongst other improvements at present in
contemplation must be mentioned a plan for enlarging the choir
of the cathedral, which is now too small for the increasing
population, and numerous visitors, of Bangor.
In common with the other cathedral churches of Wales, this
structure contains few monuments of an interesting character.
The most ancient sepulchral memorial is situated within a
low and flat arch, at the south end of the south transept.
Browne Willis describes it as being “covered with a
free stone on which is a cross that divides the length and
breadth of the stone;” and a later writer asserts that
this sculptured emblem is of a decorated description, being
no other than /n/ the cross fleury. But it would be with a
great indulgence of fancy that we believed any traces of such
a piece of sculpture to be now remaining.
It has been usually supposed that this monument was erected
to Owen Gwynedd, who died in 1169. A reverend and learned
contributor of information to the present work, who possesses
much local and antiquarian knowledge in regard to the history
of this cathedral, is of opinion, however, that it was designed
to commemorate Gruffydd ap Cynan, father of the above-named
prince, who died A.D. 1137 and is stated in the Welsh annals
to have been buried at Bangor. It is observed by Willis that
“the oldest memorandum of any bishop whatsoever extant
buried at Bangor” is an inscription to Bishop Glynn,
who died in 1558 and lies interred near the communion table.
In fact, only few of our prelates resided on their see or
were buried in their own cathedral, previous to the reformation.
The earliest bishop recorded to have been buried here is Anian
Seys who died in the year 1327. The mutilated monuments of
two later bishops, as they appeared in the year 1721, may
be thus noticed in the words of Browne Willis. On the north
side of the choir “ are the effigies (or rather busts)
of two bishops viz. bishop Vaughan and Bishop Rowland[s],
which are put close to the wall though they seem to be in
a niche. The effigies are of alabaster with a sweep of the
same material from the waist upwards in their habits, each
upon a cushion; the hands of one in a praying posture, the
other with one hand a-kimboe and the other resting on a bible.
Their heads were beaten off in the time of the rebellion,
but the inscription, which is on a black marble, and was put
up by bishop Rowlands a little before his death, is still
remaining”. The inscription, which is in Latin, and
of considerable length, narrates the descent of these successive
bishops and the friendly intercourse which subsisted between
them. There is not any funeral memorial to a dignitary of
more recent occurrence, with the exception of a small mural
monument to Dean Jones, who deceased AD 1727.
The cathedral acts as the parochial church of Bangor divine
service being celebrated in the Welsh language (as has been
already intimated) in the area between the nave, the choir
and the transepts. /o/The choir is appropriated to the usual
cathedral service in English which is always performed subsequently
to religious worship in the native tongue. The chapter is
constituted by the under-named twelve dignitaries:- The Dean,
the Bishop, as Archdeacon of Bangor, the Bishop, as Archdeacon
of Anglesey; the Archdeacon of Merioneth; the Prebendary of
Llanfair; the Prebendary of Penmynydd; the Treasurer; the
Chancellor; the Precentor; [and] three canons according to
their degrees.
The bishop’s palace is situated on the north side of
the cathedral, at the distance of about 200 yards; and is
a modest but handsome and substantial edifice, erected in
a sheltered and retired spot. Nature has here shed abundant
charms, and her bounty has been judiciously cultivated by
the simplicity of a correct taste. Placed under the shade
of a steep and well-wooded hill and encompassed by grounds
of limited dimensions, but elegantly disposed, all around
appears calculated to impart peace and to nurture habits of
study, profound but not gloomy. A large part of this very
appropriate Episcopal residence was constructed in the time
of Bishop Skeffington; but many alterations have been recently
effected. The surrounding grounds were augmented, and a road,
formerly too close in its approaches, was removed without
injury to the public, in the time of Bishop Warren. The most
important improvements, however, have been executed under
the direction of the present Bishop, who has increased the
size and internal convenience of the structure without detracting
in any particular from its original simplicity of character.
The deanery is nearly contiguous to the palace being place
at the north-west angle of the cathedral yard and wears an
estimable air of comfort, neatness and respectability.
The diocese of Bangor comprises the entire county of Anglesey,
and the whole of Caernarvonshire except three parishes; more
than half the county of Meirioneth; fourteen parishes in Denbighshire
and seven parishes in the county of Montgomery. This extensive
district is divided into three archdeaconries, two of which
(as will be seen in our enumeration of dignitaries composing
the chapter) are vested in the bishop.
The little city of Bangor, according to all reasonable calculation
/p/ derived its first importance from the celebrated college
founded here in the sixth century; if indeed, it is not indebted
for its earliest assemblage of buildings to that circumstance
of ecclesiastical favour. In an examination respecting the
history of this place, it would be quite superfluous to bestow
serious attention on the remarks of those writers who stray
beyond the reach of record, and, in the bold exercise of a
superstitious fancy, endeavour to create a ‘new world’
of topography, without having ‘exhausted the old’.
In regard to the aspect and character of Bangor, the following
remarks were made upon the spot by the present writer: “The
eye, accustomed to the view of metropolitan splendour may,
possibly, look with contempt on the low buildings of this
remote city; but the more general observer will survey in
them the happy mean between comfortless magnificence and squalid
poverty. Sullenly withdrawn to some considerable distance,
frowns the threatening Snowdon, like the fabled monarch of
the giants surrounded by his peers or the chief described
by Ossian, ‘whose spear resembled the blasted fir; his
shield the rising moon; his dark host rolling, as clouds,
around him’. In the other direction, the currents of
the Menai, and the waters of the Irish sea, unite to form
the tranquil waves of a picturesque bay; while the little
city, protected by nature on every side, emits the peaceful
volumes of her smoke in the repose of humility.”
The city of Bangor, although still humble in pretensions,
has experienced a great increase in population in the course
of the last century. Browne Willis, after mentioning the parish
as containing ‘several vills’ states the total
number of houses to be 206, in the year 1721, which on a conjectural
calculation of five inmates to each house, makes the number
of inhabitants 1030. According to the returns made to government
in the year 1811, the aggregate had increased to 474 houses,
containing 2383 persons; and fresh buildings are continually,
though not rapidly accumulating. Literary tourists, of various
descriptions have lately combined to render Wales an object
of attraction even to the luxurious traveller; and the influx
of autumnal visitants to this northern recess of Cambria is
now great, and conduces much towards the traffic and prosperity
of the place.
The relics of antiquity here presented, together with the
charitable and useful establishments, are the subject of inquiry
best suited to the present work. It was to be ascertained,
through history, that a castle was founded here by Hugh, Earl
of Chester, in the reign of William II but a knowledge of
its site was confined to a small local sphere until communicated
to the public by Mr Pennant. It is observed by that writer
that the vestiges are situated “nearly a quarter of
a mile eastward of the town on the ridge of hills which bound
the south-east of the vale. The castle stood on a rocky and
in many parts, a precipitous hill. Three sides of the walls
are easily to be traced; and they end, on two directions,
in a precipice. On the fourth side, the natural strength of
the place rendered a farther defence useless. Mounds of earth,
tending to a semicircular form, with rocks and precipices,
connect the north-east and south-west walls.”
At a small distance from the town stood a monastery for black
friars, founded, as is believed, in the year 1299 by Tudur
ap Gronw. After the dissolution of religious houses, this
was converted into a free school, in attention to the will
of Jeffrey Glynn, brother to William Glynn, Bishop of Bangor.
Although the original endowment was small, it has nurtured
the growth of an establishment highly respectable and of great
utility.
The hospital or almshouse, founded by Bishop Rowland[s], affords
assistance to six aged single men, who according to the will
of the founder, were to receive respectively, two shillings
per week and annually six yards of ‘frieze’ for
clothing.
| Length |
from
E. to
W. |
214
feet |
| Do. |
of
the tower at W. |
19
feet |
| Do. |
of
the nave or body |
141
feet |
|
Do. |
of
the choir, which extends entirely to the east
end and
begins beyond the cross aisle |
53
feet |
| Do.
|
of
the cross aisle from N. to S. |
96
feet |
| Breadth |
of
the body and side aisles |
60
feet |
| Height |
of
the body to the top of the roof |
34
feet |
| Do. |
of
the tower |
60
feet |
| Square |
of
the tower |
24
feet |
Dimensions of the Cathedral
|
 Pan / Zoom / Download Image |
In
the Appendix to Willis’s Survey of Bangor Cathedral
is printed a curious bull of Pope Paschal, addressed to
Anselm, Archbishop of Canterbury, recommending Herveus
to a bishopric. He afterwards became the first bishop of
Ely.
A
candid and comprehensive disquisition respecting th
charge brought against this bishop by Godwin, is presented
in Willis’s Survey p.101-104. In the Appendix to the
same work, and also in the Beauties of England and Wales
for Caernarvonshire, is printed the curious last will of
bishop Bulkeley.
This
Act, which was obtained in the first year of James II, is
printed in the Appendix to Willis’s Survey. In the
preamble, it is stated that the cathedral is in a very ruinous
state and that the “certain revenue of the bishopric
doth not amount to the yearly revenue of £200”.
It
is fortunate that the identity of the person here interred
is not a subject of very important enquiry, since it is
involved in considerable doubt. In the reign of Henry II,
Archbishop Baldwin was shewn,
in Bangor Cathedral, the tombs of Prince Owen and his brother
Cadwallader, who were “buried
in a double vault before the high altar”. As Owen
had been excommunicated “by the blessed martyr Thomas”,
the archbishop thought proper to direct that his remains
should be removed from the church, at the first convenient
opportunity. In the Hengwrt
MSS, as copied by Sir R. [Colt] Hoare, it is said that the
bishop, in obedience to the above charge, “made a
passage from the vault through the south wall of the church,
underground; and thus secretly shoved the body into the
churchyard”
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